Gutan Locks (Norther Atlantic Side) of Panama Canal

"I want to make as many people as possible feel like they are part of this adventure. We are going to give everybody a sense of what exploring .... is really like."

¬S. Squyres

Celebrating it's 100th year, the Panama Canal is an amazing living testament to innovation, man's imagination, engineering, and teamwork. With over 200 lock workers on any given shift  the Locks (Gutan - Atlantic side and Miraflora - Pacific side) operate 7 days a week practically 24 hours a day. Passing through the Canal are vessels of all size, type, purpose, and need.

At the Gutan Locks, visitors for a minimal charge of $5 USD (free for Panama residents) can climb to the upper level of the three chamber locks system and observe the operations. If fortunate enough,visitors can see up close and personal the passage of a ship through the lock system. Words and photos can barely do this amazing process justice. As my mother said after the boat finished clearing "I will never look at a chiqueta banana without thinking of my visit to the Panama Canal." (the ship we witnessed passing through the locks was a refrigerated container of Chiqueta bananas.

There are 2 sets of locks for the Panama Canal on opposite ends of the isthmus of Panama. Between the two locks rests the largest fresh water lake in Central America, Lake Gutan. Found at a higher elevation between the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, the canal literally cuts right through the lake. Some fish have learned to adapt to the water mixture of fresh and salt. Had the lake been at a lower elevation, it would have become salt water and be considered part of the oceans. Had the canal never been built the late would have remained secluded in the rain forest of Panama.

From the observation deck if the locks you have an incredible view of both the construction and design of the locks but also the omnious concept of the Atlantic Ocean merely a mile away to the north and the lake leading to the Pacific Ocean to the south of where you are standing. More impressive is how the locks here built by man 100 years ago and that engineering is still being used to this day. Computers may aid in the operations but the process still remains man run with radios and human involvement.

Enjoy the photos of a modern marvel.

 

When ships arrive to pass through, there are numerous steps, permissions, fees and so forth they undergo. Included in this process typically is a wait off shore for permissions. Part of the rules is that a Canal Pilot (Panamanian) and certain crews members must be aboard the vessel. Additionally the ships are not necessarily under their own power will moving from lock chambers. Large chains are used from the bow connected to locomotive engines on both side of the canal to pull the boat into and through the locks. 

The three chamber process of the lock system is like a boat going up 3 steps but through interlocking steel doors and the use of water to raise the ship to the next level. Each process takes approximately 5 minutes to change the water levels, 3 to 5 minutes to open or close the chamber doors, and 5 to 10 minutes to pull the boat through each chamber. In our time visiting, we were fortunate to see the first ship of the day enter from the Atlantic waters to head to the Pacific. The day is divided morning until approximately 3pm for ships to cross from Pacific to Atlantic. Then around 4pm the Atlantic waiting vessels are permitted to head to the Pacific. When stacked up (like the day we were there) once the 1st ship entered the middle chamber, the next ship waiting would begin to enter the lower chamber. At a busy point each chambers could actively working to move ships through.

Driving through the Panama Canal - Literally

"Adventure is worthwhile in itself."

¬Amelia Earhart

I haven't really made my official bucket list in life, probably because of how long it would truly be. But if I had an official bucket list, this one would definitely be on it. 

After nearly 18 months of driving OVER the Panama Canal on the Bridge of the Americas to simply get home or go grocery shop, this was cool experience. 

Ominous and adventurous! Being able to say I drove through the Panama Canal NOT over goes into the record book. I have driven in Hong Kong (opposite side of the road), I have driven ambulances with lights and sirens up the wrong direction of interstates, and even driven Humvees for the US Army. But this one is thrilling experience.

The "bridge" is literally a one way steel gated drawbridge like route that is just wide enough for a car or bus to cross. The water of the canal is literally a few feet below you and the waves can be see right out the window. On one side you have Atlantic Ocean rocking the waves. On the other side you have giant interlocking steel doors holding back a 20+ foot wall of water. 

At the same time you want to stop and take it in, your hearts palpates and says get across quickly. The only cooler thing I would have loved to do while there was be this lock workers and "WALK" across the Panama Canal.

The Dock Restaurant - Shelter Bay, Panama - 5 Stars! A Must

“Cookery is not chemistry. It is an art. It requires instinct and taste rather than exact measurements.”

- Chef Marcel Boulestin

One of the best places I have eaten in Panama in 18 months. Food has great flavor and the view was amazing. Coming from Colon on our way to Fort San Lorenzo (which we ended up not being able to go see due to closed roads). This was a great place to have to stop. Absolutely a place I would go back to for another great meal and even possible an overnight stay at the Marina Hotel (upstairs of the marina and a great view all around).

We sat outside on the deck, enjoying the view of the boats and a great coastal breeze. Despite the temperature outside reading in the 90s, the patio was cool, the breeze helped and the patio ceiling fans keep the air moving. I am sure at sunset the view is spectacular too. Definitely a romantic spot I would suspect.

Despite over half the kitchen staff failing to show up for work on New Year's day, the GM (Chris) was literally on the grill line cooking so that his customers where getting the high quality and great tasting food expected. The special of the day, Lobster Chowder was amazing. The fish tacos were different (more like mini fish and chips) but flavorful sea bass and fresh. The beef medallion was moist and thick. Flavorful without needing steak sauce or other seasoning. The sides of blended veggies were perfectly cooked, NOT oiling tasting and retained a perfect amount of their crispy crunch. 

We have originally been drooling for fish and chips baskets but due to the staff shortage, the menu was running an a limited scale in order to best serve the guests. Initially a little frustrated with the in attentiveness of our waiter, it quickly become clear there was a staffing issue that day. Having lived in Panama for almost two years, service being slow and it taking time for assistance has unfortunately become a regular part of dining out. Sadly for my parents (visiting from the US) it was not a flatter impression of the Panamanian worker and left them feeling a little disappoint. Thankfully the view and the great taste to the food helped make up for it. 

Price wise the menu was reasonable for the location and the portion size. All in all the bill for 4 people with 4 full meals and 4 ice teas ran approximately $80 (which breaks down to $20 a person). A couple could expect to spend around $50 if not order alcohol or starters.

Chris (the GM) was also very accommodating and handled the situation with professionalism and proper restaurant  management. The amazing deserts were of great benefit to change the souring opinion of the meal experience. The death by chocolate cake actually had to battle with the white chocolate raspberry swirled cheesecake for to a superiority. One of those to die for deserts I have been missing here in Panama. 

Definitely somewhere I would go back to dine at again and worth the drive from Panama City for a day's outing or a weekend get away. 

Check out more about the The Dock on their Website OR the Shelter Bay Marina Website.

Shelter Bay, Atlantic Side of Panama

 

Located on the Northern Atlantic water side of Panama is the famous port of Colon. Just a short distance WEST of Colon is the one and only hurricane safe marina in Panama.. Appropriately named Shelter Bay, this is a beautiful nautical point on the tip of Panama on the Caribbean / Atlantic side.  When coming from the Colon side of Panama to get to Shelter Bay you have to literally drive THROUGH the canal. A very awesome and cool experience. Definitely one for the bucket list. Photos of driving through the canal are in upcoming post on the Gutan Locks.

A short 20 to 30 minute drive WEST from Colon, the trip is worth the drive. A well maintained road is the route one drives but be prepared for some curves and bumps. Due to its high level of travel and erosion from the months of rainy season here, there can be a multitude of patches and still to be repaired holes. Unlike a lot of other parts of Panama, signage to Shelter Bay Marina is quite good. The road basically leads to the Bay with only a few alternative options along the way. 

The drive is mostly through the lush green rain-forest but does also trace the coast line. When the water is along one side their are intermittent blue signs indicating that there is access (by foot only) to the water. During our adventure, there were numerous local families with their cars parked on the green grassy shoulder off picnicking and playing in the water. 

At the end of the road, you arrive at Shelter Bay and an old military entrance check point. Maintained by the Panamanian government, we have to check in and gain permission to access. Our original destination was to be past Shelter Bay at old Fort San Lorenzo. Unfortunately per the Military guard the road was closed and that we could only go as far as the Shelter Bay Marina. The actual marine is located inside what once was a large well maintained US Military Base in Panama. The history of Panama is rich with US occupation and a strong Military presence until 1999 when the Canal was returned to Panama's Government. Sadly, many of the military installations sit in ruins and decay often covered in graffiti and ready for demolition.

At Shelter Bay Marina there is a fully operating Yatch Club, quaint hotel, ship repair yard and a small community of full time boaters. Shelter Bay is the "stopping point" for private vessels NOT passing through the canal, down from the Caribbean island, Bocas del Toro, and preparing to pass through the canal. In the distance off the most norther point you can see larger container ships and sometimes cruise ships waiting for clearance to enter the canal. More on that later. 

Nestled in the marina itself is a great restaurant, The Dock, with a nice quaint hotel upstairs.  Owned by a European and managed by an America, stopping at The Dock is am absolute must for a bite to eat, drink, and to enjoy the view. More on the Dock Restaurant in my next posting.

To see more about the great options at Shelter Bay visit their website.

Keep on Truckin' Jayden Style

A few months back a friend of mine posted on her Facebook page this story of Jayden Lamb. A sweet innocent little boy who died of cancer just days before his 9th birthday. In their grief his incredible parents rather than implode and collapse, found the inner strength and courage to honor his young life with a pay if forward movement. 

As a widower myself, I am in aw of how incredible their love and spirit is to create such a beautiful and moving jester for the benefits of others rather than be angry at the world. I know from my experience the need to keep living and moving forward after the death of a spouse. As a mother of a then 8 year old, there was no option to collapse or give up on life. The Lamb had other children to live for as well. But the beauty in this Pay It Forward movement is how Jayden's spirit has lived and helped heal his parents in their loss.

I was honored to share the news of this movement down here in Panama, Central America. I did my best as a single parent and educator to pay-it-forward for a maintenance worker's family at my school in buying each of her 3 children 2 presents and some stocking stuffing items.Ample referred to as Secret Angels at ISP, I felt is appropriate to honor Jayden's memory with toys for underprivileged kids. 

This coming year, I aim to pay-if-forward more and more as I find opportunity. Through both act of kindness, community service, as well as gifts, we can all make this place a just a little bit better of a world for all of us. I invite you all to Pay It Forward too.... Jayden Style!

Keep on Truckin' Team Jayden!

Follow the story on Facebook at:

http://www.facebook.com/KeepOnTruckinTeamJayden

Our other NEW Panamanian TAIL member

"Those who say money can't buy happiness, have never paid an adoption fee to a rescue shelter" ¬unknown.

I must embarrassingly say, that I failed to share the arrival of Ms. Cinnamon back in June this year when she come to live with us. Shockingly, I shared news of her joining the family on Facebook but forgot to pop over to the blog to share too. Ironically, Cinnamon is tail-less (one of the cruelties of her young life) but still part of our Travel Trails and TAILS (hoping many of you catch the intentional misspell). SO with no further delay - Introducing Ms. Cinnamon Yemothy.

In June when she came home. She could fit in the bend of your arm, weighted 8 lbs, and was timid, shy, and shared. She come from the Panama version of ASPC and had been removed from an abusive family. They had cut off her tail, tattooed her ear, and beat her to some degree that she is still scared of dark skinned males. 

Today, at 6 months age. She is towering over the other 3 children. Weighing in at nearly 25 lbs she still thinks she is a small 8 pounder, crawls up into chairs very delicately and sits on your lap as if she could fit. But minutes later she will go off rolling wrestling and playing with Reyna as if they are viciously fighting. It is hilarious  They tackle, the roll, they pull each others feet out from under the other... then 30 minutes later they are passed out or snuggled in bed together... then taking turns cleaning each others ears. To sisters from different ends of Panama, both off the streets, and totally happy here with us. 

 

Melia Hotel - Colon, Panama

"What I love most about this crazy life is the adventure of it."

¬J. Binoche

Located on the gorgeous Lake Gutan, this 5 Star hotel is stunning in beauty but lacking in service. Located on the old US Military Bases grounds and in the buildings of the largest American school on the Pacific side of Panama, the decor and facility has charm, the lush rain forest surrounding are tropical and the views of the lake and the pool are spectacular.  

 

On the surface the hotel has the appearance of the 5 star rating and an affordable rate, we are pleased with the building itself, the rooms are mostly clean and the space is more than ample. Having traveled to other 5 star hotels in Panama (non-city locations) at a higher rate per night, the complex and facilities as well as the amenities are fine. 

I can even handle the bump and hiccups of our reservation being lost, the room being just cleaned as we walked in, and the mini-fridge missing. But when it took over 30 minutes and 4 requests to order food at the pool side then an additional 45 minutes for our food to even arrive, it started to become apparent service was going to be an issue. In an effort to be understanding we did acknowledge it was a holiday window AND they were well understaffed. Sadly, it is a weak excuse for a hotel to say despite being at near full occupancy and hosting a New Years celebration party in their banquet facility, that they were unable to staff their hotel to serve the guests.

In the effort of moving on with the our 2 night 3 day escape to the Colon side of Panama, we spent a wonderful hour relaxing poolside, swimming in a high crystal blue water pool with the large in clear view. The weather may have been in the low 90s but with the breeze off the lake it was very comfortable. Poolside the hotel provided plenty of recliners and umbrellas  Unlike other hotel we have visited where there are only a few umbrella to shelter from the sun, Melia was plentiful with shelter to chair/guest ratio. 

The multi-level pool was also huge. Plenty of room for different preferences.  Never deeper than 8 feet and offering 2 ft shallow  play options too. For my teenage sun, his favorite was the 6 foot waterfall  or "jumping off point" to the lower pool. Feel to play, kids were cannon balling, jumping and doing flips off to the lower pool. Safe in design there was a bit of a overhang to keep the kids smacking the wall.


Unfortunately, when we returned to our rooms, one of the rooms had lost power. Out of the entire hotel, this one room had blown it's breaker. Okay, simple enough, just fix it. Unfortunately, again it took 3 requests of over 2 1/2 hours to get anything done about it. In the end, on New Year's Eve at 11:30 in my PJ's, I had to go the lobby to request a new room for my parents. Sadly it took a lot of demanding and complaining in Spanish (a challenge in itself) to make this happen. 

The next morning, breakfast was acceptable but not as lavish as promoted. A common complaint we heard from friends was that the price for the food was not comparable to what one received. Internet rating's that are negative seem to reference food issues too. But in all honest, we did not come for the food, we did not even really come for the   hotel itself. We came for the adventure and to see Colon and the Atlantic side of Panama. Sadly, though not having a clean place to sleep, a room with electricity (safety concerns started to creep into our thoughts too), and an ability to relax after a great day exploring, brought frustration and aggravation to the vacation. 

In the end, we left a day early and drove back to our Pacific side of Panama. Only a 90 minute drive, we were lucky to not be stuck with a longer drive home or a plane flight we had to wait for. The disappointing part of the settlement was the disinterest in really trying to make us happy. Not only was the manager unwilling to come talk with us face to face after the initial complaint, her response was to see me the next day at 8am when she was available  Not sure what kind of 5 star hotel  operates with out a manager or at least an assistant manager on side especially when they are at near capacity. Having worked in hotels in Asia myself, I can tell you that is a recipe for disaster. A mere 20% discount off "one charge" at the facility was their offer. Not quite acceptable on a $400 charge for 2 night for 2 rooms. After some long discussions and starting to call Capital One, they hotel ended up canceling the 2nd nights reservation, comped the no-electricity room for the 1st night and only charges us for 1 room for 1 night. 

In my next blog about the Gutan Lakes and the Shelter Bay Marina, I promise to shed a beautiful light on the incredible side of Colon Providence of Panama.